These amps are fragile inside and moving the pcb or handling it impoper can cause further damage. It is a power chip that drives the speaker and when it blows up like it did, you have to replace it and the possibly other components that were hooked up to it that also fried during the fiasco. What he's telling you is that chip is what causes the sound to come out of the speaker. A smear of fresh heat sink grease is a good idea first. Now remount the thing to the heatsink and connect the cable. And that is so if I have to touch up the solder, I have the most room possible. This leaves the IC as high as possible over the little board. I prefer to stick the legs in only just far enough for them to peek out the other side. Now stick the new IC into the holes and solder it in place. Once the legs are all gone, it is a lot easier to clear old solder from the holes. ![]() When the solder melts, pull the leg free. Go down the row and with needlenose pliers, grip each leg and heat the solder under it. Now there are 15 legs sticking up with no IC on them. Cut close to the IC body to leave as long a leg piece as possible still on the board. For you I recommend snipping the legs off the IC. I use a professional desoldering station. Also, there is a mica piece under the IC to prevent the back side of the mounting tab from touching the heat sink. Note there is a plastic washer under the screw to prevent it from touching the chip tab. Now you have the little board in your hand - along with the white greasy goop. Disconnect the cable to the little board, and unscrew the screw. There is a screw through the tab of the chip to mount the thing to the heat sink. The chip is soldered to a small pc board. ![]() glenThanks, but that all sounds like Chinese to me -] if you could explain all that in lamens terms, i would appreciate it much. just send me a private e-mail I get them pretty cheap from Line 6. If you have trouble obtaining the IC, I would be glad to sell you one. I'm not certain right off where they go, but that really wouln't concern you if not for the unstable power source you have. Heat is the kiss of death for these IC's.īTW, Line6 has started adding some protection diodes across the IC to stablize it. You also want to be certain your cooling fan is running properly & not squealing. ![]() The IC can be optained from any number of sources.MCM, Mouser, DigiKey, Allied (I think) for about $9.00 or so. You can jump any that are burned with thin wire. ![]() Your best bet without any special desoldering tools is to carefully cut the IC off the pcb & then remove the leads one by one.Īlso inspect the board carefully for any blown traces. The only issue here is removing it from the double side clad board. Dimensions (W x H x D): 26.4 x 26.4 x 14.0 in.Hello Rubymaster (you know those Ruby's are Chinese, don't cha -] )Īnyway, your only choise is to replace the TDA7293 chip.MG412A Angled Guitar Extension Speaker Cabinet This Marshall speaker cabinet is bright and punchy with tight lows and is rock-solid. The 100W amp head has unbelievable tone, feel and projection. The perfect companion for the Marshall MG100HDFX Guitar Amp Head, the MG412A Angled Guitar Extension Speaker Cabinet features 4 premium Celestion 30W 12" speakers. This Marshall MG100HDFX/MG412A Purple Half Stack features the MG100HDFX Guitar Amp Head and the MG412A Angled Guitar Extension Speaker Cabinet.
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